Best Use of Cheese:   Cheese Pide at Balkan Treat Box

If the words "boat full of cheese" mean nothing to you, clearly you've never eaten at Balkan Treat Box. From their bright red and blue food truck, chef Loryn Nalic and her husband Edo Nalic are creating some of the city's best Bosnian and Balkan cuisine, and the cheese pide may just be their most delectable offering. The Nalics outfitted their truck with a wood-fired oven so that they can bake fresh Turkish flatbread practically to order. That bread, shaped like a hollowed-out canoe and kissed with wood char, is then filled with a mild, white Bosnian cheese that has the taste of stracciatella with the texture of mozzarella or provolone. The cheese oozes into every one of the flatbread's nooks and crannies and forms about an inch-thick layer of molten goodness that melds with the bread so that it's hard to tell where one ends and the other begins. The Nalics serve this wonder with ajvar, a Bosnian mild red pepper condiment; the effect is a Balkan version of cheese garlic bread dipped in marinara. This is one boat you'd like to sink — your teeth into, that is.

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